"Sir, please don't point."
Ah, the shame! I had committed a cardinal sin of the DMZ. They'd told us repeatedly and from the start 'the first rule of the DMZ is, you do NOT talk about the DMZ.' Really. The second rule is no pointing at the North Koreans. No gestures, no faces, nothing. The instant my hand formed into a point, albeit at the blue UN buildings and not actually at North Korea, a sniper somewhere probably locked onto my face, dialing in the range in seconds, ready to take me out if I was so bold as to point twice. That's what he meant when he added the 'please.' Such is life when you're standing on the border of one of the most hostile, secluded, poor and insane countries on the planet.







